Hey I'm Will, I've Been changing my car since I bought it in 2009. But it was nothing too serious, Until now...
The dash in my car started out as black molded vinyl, and it has done the trick for 11 years, but it just wasn't interesting to look at. I was recently in an auto upholstery class, So when my second Expansion tank decided to burst on the freeway, I felt the logical thing to do would be to park the car for a while, and take the interior apart...
I felt the logical thing to do would be to park the car for a while, and take the interior apart...
My car is a TiAg 2003 330i, sport pkg. hk sound, a 6 speed manual, 2.93 diff And for the boffins out there, its NOT a ZHP but it was running MS 45.1 Mr. Bentley left my car out of his book! [shh]
The paint is old, but solid, eventually it will get corrected, but I wanted everything to be the same color, so I dipped it, which was an interesting experience, saw more colors than just the blue that day and it allowed me to gently finess the car into the garage via my wifes XC90, which is horrible and now broken. (unrelated) I really dont recommend doing this, because generally, cars arent supposed to touch each other.
And that dip, which so many hate spared the paint on the bumper
Most of the mods so far have concentrated on driving feel:
The weighted Shift knob, the reskinned steering wheel, the aluminum pedals, the Gforce sports. (comp 2) removing that dreadful delay valve the short shifter (UUC) and the Bilstein/H&R combo, HD rubber suspension bushings everywhere New mounts throughout the drivetrain.
Then there is the ipod integration. clear corners with the R/C/R Leds
I dont have any pictures of gutting the car, but if you want to do it, Id recommend getting a few seat repair kits and miscellaneous plastic hardware, clips, rivets. everybody calls them something different and they are said to be single use
All of the seats were originally covered with east german leather, which is durable, plain, and IMO, too stiff. So I bought A full hide of black Auto leather from a well known supplier, and some granite Street Suede which is an honest effort to replicate the feel and nature of Alcantara, its not the same stuff, this is backed and is better suited to seating surfaces than a single layer product, but it doesnt conform to shapes as well.
But It can be persueded
This an extra handle.
First to stitch up were the rear seats, and because my car was built right, I dont have split folding rear seats. thumbs up for rigidity!
Whew! That was fun!
-----My Seat-----
Then came the drivers seat, and this time it was personal. Driving from San Diego to San Francisco takes about 6 hours when you do it right, leave at 6pm, drive all night up I-5, often on one tank. (see 2.93) But the point is that those sport seats, are supportive enough in the bolsters for turns and fat guys, but on long drives, this seat causes a nerve impingement in my back. And since I dont want my spine to look like King Richard IIIs in a few years, I decided to reshape the seat a little bit.
Wait,not that one... That's from this Rover TC!
I think its a '68
This seat:
Yeah, there we go.
I added foam on the inside bolsters, and shaped some lumbar support.
I also shaped and patterned the passengers seat to match, both seats were also given an extra layer of 60lb foam for a firm but supportive seat bottom.
I was running out of time in the class at this point, and decided to get the dash out and tackle that next. there was a lot of black abs plastic, and this cruddy rubberized junk on the console and compartments, I dont like it, and it had deteriorated enough to be easily scraped off, or for my buddies to write infantile messages on. One even drew a rooster no respect. So I sanded it all off. and painted the frame silver:
The dash is complicated, and I dont recommend taking one out unless you have to. Thats because its all full of wires, lights and switches, not to mention that big scary airbag thats just waiting for a chance to kill you [eyeroll]
Its behind the separate blowout panel, easy to upholster without interfering with the airbag deployment because it can be wrapped separately. Some dashboards on old cars have a scored blowout panel, which is worse.
But it all started with cutting up an old Uhaul blanket and using it for patterns
The upper dash is alcantara with leather covering the instrument cluster.
The stitching is white Nylon extra thick, for her (viewing) pleasure.
The entire dash was covered in two separate pieces with a break happening on the left of the center vents.
I decided to recover my steering wheel again, because the deerskin just wasnt cutting it anymore. I had done this once before, in 2009, the wheel has been thickened with a ¼ layer of cork. Its what nature wanted your steering wheel to feel like. The result is a wheel that fits big hands and clearly, gently communicates the road surface back to your hands. Better feedback and less fatigue.
Then, I ripped up the shift boot and re-patterned it in black alcantara.
put all of that together and
The result was this:
Now Im done with the class and I dont have my own sewing machine yet, so I cant sew the passenger seat panels together, or adjust the drivers Seat yet. That also doesnt matter, because:
It was the second time this engine had overheated, I used a remanufactured head the first time the head gasket was replaced, this time it was machined, but it was no use.
So its gone!
I stripped the engine down, turned green and "Hulked" the M54 block out of the car. Without a hoist.
So now, My engine is removed. My DME is also removed, My car runs (ran) MS 45.1,
The plan is to transfer the following systems from a salvaged M3:
Engine assembly, including air pump breather
Engine wiring harness
DME (with carrier)
Gauge cluster, I realize that these need to be reconfigured
fuel system (pump, filter, regulator, lines and a K96 relay (module))
Full cooling system (radiator, fan, ET, hoses, +oil cooler)
Exhaust from the head to mid section, 02 sensors and harness.
I want to keep my EWS, and my body harness.
I want to keep my transmission, (with a different clutch and flywheel) and my rear axle as they sit, which is an open 2.93, I removed the whole rear axle last year replaced the diff fluid, which was cleanish and replaced its mounts and all of the suspension bushings aside from the RTABs. I also put ball new joints on all four outer pivot points. I want to see what this setup is like with M power.
Our local dismantler told me he can get a donor car and let me pick what I need from it for $4500. I expect he'll sell everything else.
I've read over many excellent swaps here and poured over wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual. But I don't have an M3 body harness in front of me to pick apart and compare to diagrams, which would no doubt answer this question: This fuel pump relay (K96) for the M3 is bugging me, I know it runs a few wires to fuses, the pump and the ground, and the DME, but with 9 pins on the relay I feel like I must be missing something here. If you've done it, where did you send your fuel pump relay wires (the correct time), did you splice in (rat tail, T, Western Union), or did you re-pin from the connectors fully rewire this circuit? My car was built in March of '03.
Has anybody with an S54 sedan run into any Vacuum troubles?
Have any of you re-calibrated your DSC to work with the behavior that this engine changes as it relates to traction? if yes, How'd it go?
If you've swapped an S54 into a sedan, particularly a former 330i, what exhaust sections from the donor and which from the sedan did you use?
If you've read all of that, Thank you.
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