My 02 330i auto has an over heating issue. I have changed the radiator, expansion tank, water pump, Tstat and cap, fan clutch and hoses. I did a compression
test and test for gases in the coolant ( rented the tester from auto zone, the blue fluid in the tester never changed colors, brand new tester kit, never used). The
oil shows no sign of coolant and no heavy smoke or dripping coming from the tail pipe (I am running straight water, car is kept in my garage and it never goes
below freezing in there). I changed the VCG, surprised to find how clean it was
in there, no gunk. The car idles very smooth, new belt, the tensioner does make a slight noise once warmed up.
Once I bled all the air out the cooling system, I get full heat. The car will idle
for 30 mins and the needle will rise to dead center with no TSTAT. If I raise
The RPMs to 2500 the temp gauge will go down towards the blue. I have an
OBDII scanner and I can monitor the temps more accurately than the temp
gauge on the car. The temp gauge on the car will stay in the middle from about
160 F to around 235 F. Normal running temps are around 190 to 220 F.
My problem is once I drive the car, it will start to run hot anywhere from 12 to
18 mins. Both lower and upper hoses get super hard and I have to release the
pressure from the bleeder screw.
I did an experiment with my sons 99 323i 5 speed. His tstat was acting up. So
I gutted it (like the one in the 330i). While we were waiting for the new tstat, he
was driving the car around. Whenever the temp gauge was near the middle, it
would go back down towards the blue, when the car was moving. Once the new tstat came, all was
normal again, the temp gauge would stay in the middle once warmed up.
I was hoping the 330i would do that also, then I know all is well. But for some
reason while driving close to 10 mins the heat will turn cold and then the temps
will go up and it will be running hot soon after.
Any ideas?
I did notice that the flow from the tiny hole in the expansion tank is not as strong as the flow in the ET of the 323i. Maybe try another new water pump?
test and test for gases in the coolant ( rented the tester from auto zone, the blue fluid in the tester never changed colors, brand new tester kit, never used). The
oil shows no sign of coolant and no heavy smoke or dripping coming from the tail pipe (I am running straight water, car is kept in my garage and it never goes
below freezing in there). I changed the VCG, surprised to find how clean it was
in there, no gunk. The car idles very smooth, new belt, the tensioner does make a slight noise once warmed up.
Once I bled all the air out the cooling system, I get full heat. The car will idle
for 30 mins and the needle will rise to dead center with no TSTAT. If I raise
The RPMs to 2500 the temp gauge will go down towards the blue. I have an
OBDII scanner and I can monitor the temps more accurately than the temp
gauge on the car. The temp gauge on the car will stay in the middle from about
160 F to around 235 F. Normal running temps are around 190 to 220 F.
My problem is once I drive the car, it will start to run hot anywhere from 12 to
18 mins. Both lower and upper hoses get super hard and I have to release the
pressure from the bleeder screw.
I did an experiment with my sons 99 323i 5 speed. His tstat was acting up. So
I gutted it (like the one in the 330i). While we were waiting for the new tstat, he
was driving the car around. Whenever the temp gauge was near the middle, it
would go back down towards the blue, when the car was moving. Once the new tstat came, all was
normal again, the temp gauge would stay in the middle once warmed up.
I was hoping the 330i would do that also, then I know all is well. But for some
reason while driving close to 10 mins the heat will turn cold and then the temps
will go up and it will be running hot soon after.
Any ideas?
I did notice that the flow from the tiny hole in the expansion tank is not as strong as the flow in the ET of the 323i. Maybe try another new water pump?
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