I am going to list everything I have tried and everything I know. I have spent what amounts to full days in total hours reading all I can on this site trying to solve this issue - as many posts say why throw $ at the problem if it's not going to fix anything.
History of car...
2002 BMW 325i 134k miles - same family owner(I am third owner).
Purchased with mangled suspension(rear trailing arms, cracked springs, worn shocks struts). Replaced all of that. Drove great needs alignment, but will do so after front Control Arm is replaced.
So, car was driving just fine...
Took to oil change place, they changed oil, newbie was really rough when checking the air filter, lifting/pulling shaking the air box.
Vehicle has NOT run properly since going there. Took back, they inspected air hoses etc can't find anything...
Ever since they did that, I had to rev car to 2k rpm and hold it there for a few minutes, then it was fine to drive, if it sat for more than about 6 hours, or overnight, same thing, drove fine(after revving up for a few minutes first).
HAD the following CEL codes...
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
P0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
P0444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P1083 Manufacturer Code
P1085 Manufactuer Code
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Thermostat Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
Currently(below is listed what has been done - ***8226;***8226;NO CEL light currently***8226;***8226;), start car, sputters and dies instantly.
Start car, rev to 2k rpm hold for a few minutes, can then put into gear without stalling, but put it into reverse and it stalls, unless you really floor it, which means chirping the rear tires and that's dangerous backing out under full acceleration...
It'll stall, restart, stall, so pull forward park it and don't drive it.
1. Cleaned MAF sensor(wasn't dirty).
2. re-inspected air filter - new
3. Removed all of airbox stuff, removed and cleaned ICV(when shook really hard it barely moved) now moves freely, and we tested it with everything off turning key to make sure it operated. Inspected all boots/lines on that side of engine, everything is intact including oil pickup tubes etc. No breaks anywhere visible. lower and upper intake boots solid no cracks. Did replace the smaller vacuum line on double line going into upper intake boot with elbow as it had visible cracking but not cracked(now it's new).
4. read posts about electrical connectors and pick - "tightened" all connectors while doing the above along with vanos, temp, maf, dias, icv etc.
5. removed vanos solenoid - oil inside, cleaned, re-installed - so sure it confirms vanos needs serviced but everything I've read indicates that should not cause my stalling??
6. sprayed silicone spray(my mechanics preference) around entire engine, did not change rough idle at all. Including around valve cover gasket to make sure it's not some huge vacuum leak.
7. random woosh noise on occasion(maybe vacuum leak but could not confirm), engine kicks down rpms to about 500 and runs rough, randomly increases to about 900 and purrrrrs and sounds great. sprayed when idle dropped no change anywhere...
8. read up on diagnosing vacuum by removing oil filler cap and a plastic bag, it gets gently sucked in 3/4", behaves as expected.
9. rented fuel pressure tester - 49#s steady, when car drops to 500rpm and runs rough - 49#s steady.
10. battery replaced recently and tested ok.
11. Just minutes ago started it up, stalled died. restarted and revved to 1500rpm for a few minutes, idles ok, put into reverse drops from about 1000rpm to 500rpm.
CURRENTLY - no CEL when read.
Also - after oil change, and resetting the light...start the car, once it's on(after revving) for a few minutes, then the oil light lights up, stays for a few seconds and goes away...is that normal?
And one thing I forgot, couple days ago had it idling in driveway for 10 minutes, had a woosh clunk, woosh clunk noise coming from left side of engine(mechanic said that's a valve), is that cause for concern??
Cleaning the ICV and replacing cracking but not cracked vacuum line has caused all the CEL codes to disappear.
Local Euro shop wants $200 just to look at car.
Have had a couple other people look, still dumbfounded currently as to what is causing issue.
Anyone local in NW Ohio bored and want a challenge???
Willing to barter with used computers, or computer repair.
Thanks!
History of car...
2002 BMW 325i 134k miles - same family owner(I am third owner).
Purchased with mangled suspension(rear trailing arms, cracked springs, worn shocks struts). Replaced all of that. Drove great needs alignment, but will do so after front Control Arm is replaced.
So, car was driving just fine...
Took to oil change place, they changed oil, newbie was really rough when checking the air filter, lifting/pulling shaking the air box.
Vehicle has NOT run properly since going there. Took back, they inspected air hoses etc can't find anything...
Ever since they did that, I had to rev car to 2k rpm and hold it there for a few minutes, then it was fine to drive, if it sat for more than about 6 hours, or overnight, same thing, drove fine(after revving up for a few minutes first).
HAD the following CEL codes...
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
P0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
P0444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P1083 Manufacturer Code
P1085 Manufactuer Code
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Thermostat Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
Currently(below is listed what has been done - ***8226;***8226;NO CEL light currently***8226;***8226;), start car, sputters and dies instantly.
Start car, rev to 2k rpm hold for a few minutes, can then put into gear without stalling, but put it into reverse and it stalls, unless you really floor it, which means chirping the rear tires and that's dangerous backing out under full acceleration...
It'll stall, restart, stall, so pull forward park it and don't drive it.
1. Cleaned MAF sensor(wasn't dirty).
2. re-inspected air filter - new
3. Removed all of airbox stuff, removed and cleaned ICV(when shook really hard it barely moved) now moves freely, and we tested it with everything off turning key to make sure it operated. Inspected all boots/lines on that side of engine, everything is intact including oil pickup tubes etc. No breaks anywhere visible. lower and upper intake boots solid no cracks. Did replace the smaller vacuum line on double line going into upper intake boot with elbow as it had visible cracking but not cracked(now it's new).
4. read posts about electrical connectors and pick - "tightened" all connectors while doing the above along with vanos, temp, maf, dias, icv etc.
5. removed vanos solenoid - oil inside, cleaned, re-installed - so sure it confirms vanos needs serviced but everything I've read indicates that should not cause my stalling??
6. sprayed silicone spray(my mechanics preference) around entire engine, did not change rough idle at all. Including around valve cover gasket to make sure it's not some huge vacuum leak.
7. random woosh noise on occasion(maybe vacuum leak but could not confirm), engine kicks down rpms to about 500 and runs rough, randomly increases to about 900 and purrrrrs and sounds great. sprayed when idle dropped no change anywhere...
8. read up on diagnosing vacuum by removing oil filler cap and a plastic bag, it gets gently sucked in 3/4", behaves as expected.
9. rented fuel pressure tester - 49#s steady, when car drops to 500rpm and runs rough - 49#s steady.
10. battery replaced recently and tested ok.
11. Just minutes ago started it up, stalled died. restarted and revved to 1500rpm for a few minutes, idles ok, put into reverse drops from about 1000rpm to 500rpm.
CURRENTLY - no CEL when read.
Also - after oil change, and resetting the light...start the car, once it's on(after revving) for a few minutes, then the oil light lights up, stays for a few seconds and goes away...is that normal?
And one thing I forgot, couple days ago had it idling in driveway for 10 minutes, had a woosh clunk, woosh clunk noise coming from left side of engine(mechanic said that's a valve), is that cause for concern??
Cleaning the ICV and replacing cracking but not cracked vacuum line has caused all the CEL codes to disappear.
Local Euro shop wants $200 just to look at car.
Have had a couple other people look, still dumbfounded currently as to what is causing issue.
Anyone local in NW Ohio bored and want a challenge???
Willing to barter with used computers, or computer repair.
Thanks!
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