To my knowledge, this is one of the very few documented Max PSI turbo builds. I know there are quite a few kits out there, but no one has publicly posted anything about their results, testimonials, or reviews (good or bad); which seems odd to me. However, this is the first supercharged to turbo build documented on the forums!!! :parrot: :dance:
As you all know, SMG guys have been plagued with issues when surpassing 500lbs torque or so; i.e. car shutting off when decelerating, hesitation in between shifts at wide open throttle, and rough idle. All of which are unacceptable. These were the key factors that had me wait MONTHS before I pulled the trigger. The moment I heard the great news that Nick G from Technique Tuning had solved the puzzling issue, I called up Mike at Max PSI and officially made the purchase! :thumbsup2: -With a few tweaks of course. I opted for the PT6466 Turbo over the 6266, a 3.5" electronically controlled dump valve, and a 3.5" intake.
I will start off by saying that Mike's customer service has been nothing but Grade A! He responded to all of my annoying e-mails (70 total back and forth) prior to me even purchasing a kit from him. Also, even after the purchase he was always a phone call away to offer tips on how to install a part or to verify if a device is running properly; even when he was 'off the clock.' That says something because let's face it, most issues ironically occur after business hours, which sets you back a day (basically) because you have to wait until the next morning to get an answer. :hattip:
Before I went turbo, I had an Active Autowerke Stage 2+ Renegade kit utilizing the Rotrex C38-91 blower (I'll be posting this for sale soon); I was making good power, ~520rwhp. I had a special set of pulleys made by AA so that I can run more boost, but I never got around to install them. Right when I was about to, a forum member (FrankensteinM3) was tackling nearly the same build with the same size pulleys. He was hitting 20-21psi and making nearly ~600rwhp!!! BUT, like I said earlier, at the time there was no SMG fix so he was plagued with all the issues mentioned above. This is where the debate came; do I want to build my motor and over-rev the blower to hit 600rwhp or do I want to keep my block stock and turbo it so my power potential/upgradability is endless? I went turbo because, let's face it, they are the future and DAT TORQUE FIGURE DOE?!?!? :drool:
Maximum PSI Stage 2 Parts:
Stock DME Technique Tuning Turbo Software
Maximum PSI Twin Scroll Tubular Exhaust Manifold (Ceramic Coated)
Precision 6466 Twin Scroll Turbo
Maximum PSI Aluminum Intake Manifold
Tial MVR Wastegate
Synapse Diverter Valve
Front Mount Intercooler & Hardware
MAF Sensor & Harness
Air Temp Sensor
Spark Plugs
Injectors & Connectors
Fuel Rail Hardware
Walbro 485 Fuel Pump Assembly
Turbosmart eBoost
3.5" Intake Pipe
Green Filters USA Filter
2.5" Stainless Steel Hot Side Charge Piping
3" Stainless Steel Cold Side Charge Piping
All Silicone Couplers & Clamps Required
Check Valve For Evap System
Turbo Oil Feed & Drain Assembly
Oil Pan Drill Bit, Tap, & Template
Full 3" Stainless Steel Downpipe w/ Catless Exhaust
3.5" Electronic Dump Valve
Stainless Steel Wastegate Tube w/ Mounting Hardware
Turbo Mounting Hardware & Gasket
Header Mounting Hardware & Gaskets
Valve Cover Breather Hose & Clamps
Motor Mount, Mount Arm, & Hardware
Intake Manifold Brace and Hardware
Oil Pan Vent Plug Hardware
IVC Hose, Clamps, & Fittings
Washer Bottle Pump Tank, & Assembly w/ Hardware
SMG Relocation Kit & Hardware (if necessary)
Brake Duct Block & Hardware
Vacuum Hose & Fittings
Wiring Supplies
Zip Ties
ECU Shipping Bag
Bumper Weather Stripping
3/28/2014
THE KIT HAS ARRIVED!!!:
-The packaging was precisely tapered off into squares separating all of the 'little' parts. Each part was labeled so you knew exactly what you were looking at and each wire was labeled to limit any confusion as to where each goes; i.e. brown goes to black, or blue goes to white. I thought I was going to receive a typical box of parts and would have to separate each piece before tackling the install. The install instructions came pre-loaded onto a flash drive and some of the parts had their own sheet of directions taped to them. I will say that the directions do need some revisions/updating, but overall they were clear.
-As described above in my opening statements, I opted for the PT6466 turbo over the 6266, a 3.5" electronically controlled dump valve, and an upgraded intake to 3.5". You will see more of these later as the install progresses.
SUPERCHARGER KIT NEEDS TO COME OFF:
MANIFOLD, HEADERS, SUPERCHARGER, INTERCOOLERS, & FUEL RAIL REMOVED:
-This is the 'easy' part of the build since taking parts off is always much easier than putting them on. This can be done within an hour or so if you are mechanically inclined.
3/30/2014
When we pulled the old spark plugs out, we noticed that they were blackened due to running rich. Because of that we were advised to replace the valve cover gasket since we were in there already. The inside of the motor looked super healthy and sludge-free, though. I guess I can thank oil changes at 5k intervals. Woot Woot!
3/31/2014
The Max PSI Stage 2 kit utilizes the OEM fuel system, which I do not have since I have the 'upgraded' AA stage 2 fuel system utilizing -6AN lines and fittings. Rather than opening up a can of headaches, Mike said it was okay for me to keep the fuel lines intact. This will be a benefit later on for when he releases the E85 tune. I also opted to 'upgrade' to the Radium Engineering Fuel Rail and re-route the fuel lines to the back of the fuel rail in order to make room for the fuel pressure gauge on the front of the fuel rail. This is truly a beautiful piece! Also, took the time to install the 60# fuel injectors; they popped right in!
This kit comes with a Walbro 485 fuel pump that sits in the tank. We had to remove the Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump and drop this one in. Since my fuel pump housing is already wired with relays (thanks to AA fuel system), this took no time at all.
We also took the liberty of installing the thick intercooler since it is literally the easiest thing to install. I noticed that I will need to locate a new kevlar bumper support since my old one had to be cut in order to fit the AA intercooler.
Also, we test fitted the Max PSI manifold and realized it sits a lot 'deeper' than the AA manifold, which causes an issue with the fuel pressure regulator location since it is bolted right under the throttle bodies. We decided to reroute the FPR into the 'drug bin' since it's an open location that is easy to get to.
INSTALLED THE INTERCOOLER:
REMOVED THE AA FUEL RAIL AND INSTALLED THE RADIUM ENGINEERING FUEL RAIL:
RELOCATED FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR INTO DRUG BIN:
DROPPED IN THE WALBRO FUEL PUMP:
4/1/2014
Today we took the liberty of installing the new engine mount with associated bracket, exhaust manifold, turbo housing, PT466 Turbo, downpipe, Tial Wastegate, and associated boost lines. We also took the time to test-fit the section one piping since it will need cutting in order to fit the Bimmerworld single 3.5" race exhaust I have. The section 1 from Max PSI splits into 2 as if it were bolting up to an OEM-like system, but the BW 3.5" Race exhaust is a single pipe all the way to the muffler. With this kit, you will have to tap into the oil pan for the oil feed lines to the turbo. I forgot to snap pictures of this, so check back later for updates.
NOTE: I had the Vibratechnic motor mounts installed prior to this, and you CAN keep the driver's side one in place if you don't want to revert back to stock. This won't cause any fitment issues for any of the associated turbo parts.
The turbo and turbo housing were an absolute NIGHTMARE to install because of the super tight location the turbo sits in; I wish we could run top mounted turbos, but without all the fabricating. Mike supplies this custom fabricated wrench (you'll thank him later) to help with installing the turbo, but there is one allen wrench type fitting facing the motor at the top of the turbo housing that is an absolute nightmare to get to. This is where you start to look like all these girls on Instagram taking selfies in the mirror with their backs arched in awkward positions and their hands in locations that don't make sense.
4/2/2014
Now that the FPR is out of the way, we took the liberty of installing the manifold (with new MAF), intercooler piping, 3.5" intake with filter, SMG tank, deleted the OEM windshield washer fluid tank and used the universal tank that comes with this kit in the 'drug bin', Synapse Engineering Diverter Valve, and associated vacuum lines.
These parts were extremely easy to install since they are literally "bolt on." For this particular kit, the intake goes through the motor mount (super tight fit) and sits right behind the brake duct (if you're running an OEM bumper). Because of that, you will have to take out your OEM windshield washer tank and use the universal one that comes with the kit; it will be installed in the 'drug bin'. On the HPF kits, the intake goes up the side of the manifold/motor and sits where the secondary air pump is located, which allows you to keep your OEM windshield washer tank. At first, I opted for the HPF route since Mike is more than capable of custom fabricating any pieces you want, but he talked me out of it. It just didn't make sense to run a 2.5" intake right next to the motor (super hot), which basically means the turbo is sucking from a straw. With the intake at the bottom by the air duct, you are free to use 3.5" piping and a bigger intake filter right where there is an extreme amount of airflow. I still kind of want to go the HPF intake route, but I'll explain that in a bit.
Since this kit is using an OEM DME tune, the blowoff valve sits on the driver's side intercooler piping. On other kits using AEM Infinity or Pro-EFI the blowoff valve sits on the manifold, but I was told that isn't possible due to the OEM DME being used. Something about the blowoff valve being after the MAF and the DME not liking that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Back to the intercooler piping install I mentioned above. The driver's side piping goes straight up to the manifold, simple. The passenger's side piping goes straight to the bottom of the turbo, simple. However, this pipe sits EXTREMELY low. So low that you have to cut a piece out of the tray that sits under the motor. This is not for the stanced-out guys or the guys tucking wheels. This is why I mentioned the HPF intake location. If the intake goes straight up off the turbo into the engine bay, you could run this intercooler pipe through the motor mount allowing you to lower the car without any worries; you also won't have to cut the undertray. I am still considering this route, but at this point I want to get the car up and running first.
If you are going from a supercharger kit to a turbo kit, you will need to source some OEM 6-rib pulleys and tensioners. For a lot of supercharged guys, you were required to change everything to an 8-rib setup. You will for sure need an OEM water pump pulley, crank pulley, and alternator pulley. Since you're in there, you might as well get new tensioners too. The alternator was the hardest to source. Every dealer in the country, even Germany, is on backorder for this part. I got lucky and found a local guy to source this part for me.
MANIFOLD IS ON WITH THE MAF AND SMG TANK:
INTERCOOLER PIPING IS ON WITH SYNAPSE BOV:
INTAKE IS ON WITH THAT 'SUPER LOW' INTERCOOLER PIPE I MENTIONED:
See how the intercooler piping goes 'under' everything? Probably the only thing I don't like about this kit, which I might have to change.
As you all know, SMG guys have been plagued with issues when surpassing 500lbs torque or so; i.e. car shutting off when decelerating, hesitation in between shifts at wide open throttle, and rough idle. All of which are unacceptable. These were the key factors that had me wait MONTHS before I pulled the trigger. The moment I heard the great news that Nick G from Technique Tuning had solved the puzzling issue, I called up Mike at Max PSI and officially made the purchase! :thumbsup2: -With a few tweaks of course. I opted for the PT6466 Turbo over the 6266, a 3.5" electronically controlled dump valve, and a 3.5" intake.
I will start off by saying that Mike's customer service has been nothing but Grade A! He responded to all of my annoying e-mails (70 total back and forth) prior to me even purchasing a kit from him. Also, even after the purchase he was always a phone call away to offer tips on how to install a part or to verify if a device is running properly; even when he was 'off the clock.' That says something because let's face it, most issues ironically occur after business hours, which sets you back a day (basically) because you have to wait until the next morning to get an answer. :hattip:
Before I went turbo, I had an Active Autowerke Stage 2+ Renegade kit utilizing the Rotrex C38-91 blower (I'll be posting this for sale soon); I was making good power, ~520rwhp. I had a special set of pulleys made by AA so that I can run more boost, but I never got around to install them. Right when I was about to, a forum member (FrankensteinM3) was tackling nearly the same build with the same size pulleys. He was hitting 20-21psi and making nearly ~600rwhp!!! BUT, like I said earlier, at the time there was no SMG fix so he was plagued with all the issues mentioned above. This is where the debate came; do I want to build my motor and over-rev the blower to hit 600rwhp or do I want to keep my block stock and turbo it so my power potential/upgradability is endless? I went turbo because, let's face it, they are the future and DAT TORQUE FIGURE DOE?!?!? :drool:
Maximum PSI Stage 2 Parts:
Stock DME Technique Tuning Turbo Software
Maximum PSI Twin Scroll Tubular Exhaust Manifold (Ceramic Coated)
Precision 6466 Twin Scroll Turbo
Maximum PSI Aluminum Intake Manifold
Tial MVR Wastegate
Synapse Diverter Valve
Front Mount Intercooler & Hardware
MAF Sensor & Harness
Air Temp Sensor
Spark Plugs
Injectors & Connectors
Fuel Rail Hardware
Walbro 485 Fuel Pump Assembly
Turbosmart eBoost
3.5" Intake Pipe
Green Filters USA Filter
2.5" Stainless Steel Hot Side Charge Piping
3" Stainless Steel Cold Side Charge Piping
All Silicone Couplers & Clamps Required
Check Valve For Evap System
Turbo Oil Feed & Drain Assembly
Oil Pan Drill Bit, Tap, & Template
Full 3" Stainless Steel Downpipe w/ Catless Exhaust
3.5" Electronic Dump Valve
Stainless Steel Wastegate Tube w/ Mounting Hardware
Turbo Mounting Hardware & Gasket
Header Mounting Hardware & Gaskets
Valve Cover Breather Hose & Clamps
Motor Mount, Mount Arm, & Hardware
Intake Manifold Brace and Hardware
Oil Pan Vent Plug Hardware
IVC Hose, Clamps, & Fittings
Washer Bottle Pump Tank, & Assembly w/ Hardware
SMG Relocation Kit & Hardware (if necessary)
Brake Duct Block & Hardware
Vacuum Hose & Fittings
Wiring Supplies
Zip Ties
ECU Shipping Bag
Bumper Weather Stripping
3/28/2014
THE KIT HAS ARRIVED!!!:
-The packaging was precisely tapered off into squares separating all of the 'little' parts. Each part was labeled so you knew exactly what you were looking at and each wire was labeled to limit any confusion as to where each goes; i.e. brown goes to black, or blue goes to white. I thought I was going to receive a typical box of parts and would have to separate each piece before tackling the install. The install instructions came pre-loaded onto a flash drive and some of the parts had their own sheet of directions taped to them. I will say that the directions do need some revisions/updating, but overall they were clear.
-As described above in my opening statements, I opted for the PT6466 turbo over the 6266, a 3.5" electronically controlled dump valve, and an upgraded intake to 3.5". You will see more of these later as the install progresses.
SUPERCHARGER KIT NEEDS TO COME OFF:
MANIFOLD, HEADERS, SUPERCHARGER, INTERCOOLERS, & FUEL RAIL REMOVED:
-This is the 'easy' part of the build since taking parts off is always much easier than putting them on. This can be done within an hour or so if you are mechanically inclined.
3/30/2014
When we pulled the old spark plugs out, we noticed that they were blackened due to running rich. Because of that we were advised to replace the valve cover gasket since we were in there already. The inside of the motor looked super healthy and sludge-free, though. I guess I can thank oil changes at 5k intervals. Woot Woot!
3/31/2014
The Max PSI Stage 2 kit utilizes the OEM fuel system, which I do not have since I have the 'upgraded' AA stage 2 fuel system utilizing -6AN lines and fittings. Rather than opening up a can of headaches, Mike said it was okay for me to keep the fuel lines intact. This will be a benefit later on for when he releases the E85 tune. I also opted to 'upgrade' to the Radium Engineering Fuel Rail and re-route the fuel lines to the back of the fuel rail in order to make room for the fuel pressure gauge on the front of the fuel rail. This is truly a beautiful piece! Also, took the time to install the 60# fuel injectors; they popped right in!
This kit comes with a Walbro 485 fuel pump that sits in the tank. We had to remove the Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump and drop this one in. Since my fuel pump housing is already wired with relays (thanks to AA fuel system), this took no time at all.
We also took the liberty of installing the thick intercooler since it is literally the easiest thing to install. I noticed that I will need to locate a new kevlar bumper support since my old one had to be cut in order to fit the AA intercooler.
Also, we test fitted the Max PSI manifold and realized it sits a lot 'deeper' than the AA manifold, which causes an issue with the fuel pressure regulator location since it is bolted right under the throttle bodies. We decided to reroute the FPR into the 'drug bin' since it's an open location that is easy to get to.
INSTALLED THE INTERCOOLER:
REMOVED THE AA FUEL RAIL AND INSTALLED THE RADIUM ENGINEERING FUEL RAIL:
RELOCATED FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR INTO DRUG BIN:
DROPPED IN THE WALBRO FUEL PUMP:
4/1/2014
Today we took the liberty of installing the new engine mount with associated bracket, exhaust manifold, turbo housing, PT466 Turbo, downpipe, Tial Wastegate, and associated boost lines. We also took the time to test-fit the section one piping since it will need cutting in order to fit the Bimmerworld single 3.5" race exhaust I have. The section 1 from Max PSI splits into 2 as if it were bolting up to an OEM-like system, but the BW 3.5" Race exhaust is a single pipe all the way to the muffler. With this kit, you will have to tap into the oil pan for the oil feed lines to the turbo. I forgot to snap pictures of this, so check back later for updates.
NOTE: I had the Vibratechnic motor mounts installed prior to this, and you CAN keep the driver's side one in place if you don't want to revert back to stock. This won't cause any fitment issues for any of the associated turbo parts.
The turbo and turbo housing were an absolute NIGHTMARE to install because of the super tight location the turbo sits in; I wish we could run top mounted turbos, but without all the fabricating. Mike supplies this custom fabricated wrench (you'll thank him later) to help with installing the turbo, but there is one allen wrench type fitting facing the motor at the top of the turbo housing that is an absolute nightmare to get to. This is where you start to look like all these girls on Instagram taking selfies in the mirror with their backs arched in awkward positions and their hands in locations that don't make sense.
4/2/2014
Now that the FPR is out of the way, we took the liberty of installing the manifold (with new MAF), intercooler piping, 3.5" intake with filter, SMG tank, deleted the OEM windshield washer fluid tank and used the universal tank that comes with this kit in the 'drug bin', Synapse Engineering Diverter Valve, and associated vacuum lines.
These parts were extremely easy to install since they are literally "bolt on." For this particular kit, the intake goes through the motor mount (super tight fit) and sits right behind the brake duct (if you're running an OEM bumper). Because of that, you will have to take out your OEM windshield washer tank and use the universal one that comes with the kit; it will be installed in the 'drug bin'. On the HPF kits, the intake goes up the side of the manifold/motor and sits where the secondary air pump is located, which allows you to keep your OEM windshield washer tank. At first, I opted for the HPF route since Mike is more than capable of custom fabricating any pieces you want, but he talked me out of it. It just didn't make sense to run a 2.5" intake right next to the motor (super hot), which basically means the turbo is sucking from a straw. With the intake at the bottom by the air duct, you are free to use 3.5" piping and a bigger intake filter right where there is an extreme amount of airflow. I still kind of want to go the HPF intake route, but I'll explain that in a bit.
Since this kit is using an OEM DME tune, the blowoff valve sits on the driver's side intercooler piping. On other kits using AEM Infinity or Pro-EFI the blowoff valve sits on the manifold, but I was told that isn't possible due to the OEM DME being used. Something about the blowoff valve being after the MAF and the DME not liking that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Back to the intercooler piping install I mentioned above. The driver's side piping goes straight up to the manifold, simple. The passenger's side piping goes straight to the bottom of the turbo, simple. However, this pipe sits EXTREMELY low. So low that you have to cut a piece out of the tray that sits under the motor. This is not for the stanced-out guys or the guys tucking wheels. This is why I mentioned the HPF intake location. If the intake goes straight up off the turbo into the engine bay, you could run this intercooler pipe through the motor mount allowing you to lower the car without any worries; you also won't have to cut the undertray. I am still considering this route, but at this point I want to get the car up and running first.
If you are going from a supercharger kit to a turbo kit, you will need to source some OEM 6-rib pulleys and tensioners. For a lot of supercharged guys, you were required to change everything to an 8-rib setup. You will for sure need an OEM water pump pulley, crank pulley, and alternator pulley. Since you're in there, you might as well get new tensioners too. The alternator was the hardest to source. Every dealer in the country, even Germany, is on backorder for this part. I got lucky and found a local guy to source this part for me.
MANIFOLD IS ON WITH THE MAF AND SMG TANK:
INTERCOOLER PIPING IS ON WITH SYNAPSE BOV:
INTAKE IS ON WITH THAT 'SUPER LOW' INTERCOOLER PIPE I MENTIONED:
See how the intercooler piping goes 'under' everything? Probably the only thing I don't like about this kit, which I might have to change.
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