Ok, so I don't want to be too dramatic but this has been a seriously long project. I bought the car a little over a year ago and I think I should be able to pass inspection tomorrow!!
So, since this post is about passing the emissions / inspection, I'll leave out the list of like 80 codes my car had when I got it.
I had everything repaired and the car ran pretty great, but I still had a CEL for o2 sensors. I figured it wasn't too big of a deal, so I ordered a replacement for all 4 sensors on my car. Long story short, I replaced my two precats with no problem but could not get my post cats to come loose regardless of what special tool, heat, cold, banging, prying, or stretching I did. I took the car to my mechanic and asked him to do it, but let him know that if things got out of hand, before he got into a huge job of it (pulling the headers) to stop and I would take care of it on my end. Well, he tried and tried and even with the car up on the lift, he said the only way he could get the O2's replaced was if he did it on the bench which would take time,...and of course cost money.
Basically out of options, I decided to go with some aftermarket ebay headers. There are a million posts on this, but as I had only spent 1900 bucks on the car, I wasn't spending 1000 on headers so I read a bit, and picked some up.
I bought mine from http://ift.tt/2s6Kfdx who turned out to be really fantastic through the whole ordeal. And it WAS a bit of an ordeal.
At first approach, they wouldn't line up at all and were coming in contact with the motor mount. Not sure what changed but after pulling them out and putting them in a few more times, they dropped into place nicely. I'll write up my header install experience on another post.
I used the Non-Fouler trick to get around the emissions problems, but after everything was buttoned up and ready to go, this did not trick my post cat O2's and I was still reading way too hot as well as showing that I had a non-functional catalytic converter.
I'm not saying that everyone out there who says the non-foulers work are full of it, cars are just weird like that, one thing works on one and not for another.
Desperate to pass inspection with these headers (Especially since I sold my cat-headers) I started looking at other options. This basically meant an O2 Simulator. It was only through relentless searching that I even found an article discussing custom tunes to resolve this problem.
Once I had determined that I would move forward with giving this a shot, I needed to figure out how to get the software all working...this usually difficult job is made extremely simple thanks to armenh :bow: and his awesome post here:
http://ift.tt/2tpujXH
Not only does he have links to the software you need, but his video really walks you through setting it all up nicely. Not to mention, the only place I could find BMW Coding Tools.
I then used the following threads to help get towards a new EU2 flash:
http://ift.tt/2s6kg68
http://ift.tt/2tpqCBe
Basically, you need to go to http://ift.tt/2s6lcHr and enter all your pertinant information, click on Engine Electrical System > Programmed DME control unit
Then find the specific DME flash for your car, in my case 12 14 7 564 476, of which, you only need the last 7 digits to properly pull in the correct EU tune in WinKFP
I had everything I needed, hooked the car up to another running vehicle to keep battery voltage steady, and flashed the new EU2 tune and reset the adaptations.
After this was all done, I did a few drive cycles, and all monitors went ready besides my O2 Sensor Heaters and my Secondary Air System. In PA witha 2001+ car, you need to have it down to 1 system not ready so I was still falling short.
After worrying that I was driving all over Gods creation for no reason, I did some additional reading and read that some people had to unplug their SAP Relay sensor and fuse 4 for the O2 Sensors. I pulled the fuse, removed the glovebox, and pulled the salmon colored relay. I reset my adaptations, and before I even moved my car, I put the TouchScan software on and it listed my SAP as N/A instead of Incomplete! So now I have only 1 system not ready, which is the O2 Sensor heaters.
So to summarize for those looking for a TLDR jump.
So, since this post is about passing the emissions / inspection, I'll leave out the list of like 80 codes my car had when I got it.
I had everything repaired and the car ran pretty great, but I still had a CEL for o2 sensors. I figured it wasn't too big of a deal, so I ordered a replacement for all 4 sensors on my car. Long story short, I replaced my two precats with no problem but could not get my post cats to come loose regardless of what special tool, heat, cold, banging, prying, or stretching I did. I took the car to my mechanic and asked him to do it, but let him know that if things got out of hand, before he got into a huge job of it (pulling the headers) to stop and I would take care of it on my end. Well, he tried and tried and even with the car up on the lift, he said the only way he could get the O2's replaced was if he did it on the bench which would take time,...and of course cost money.
Basically out of options, I decided to go with some aftermarket ebay headers. There are a million posts on this, but as I had only spent 1900 bucks on the car, I wasn't spending 1000 on headers so I read a bit, and picked some up.
I bought mine from http://ift.tt/2s6Kfdx who turned out to be really fantastic through the whole ordeal. And it WAS a bit of an ordeal.
At first approach, they wouldn't line up at all and were coming in contact with the motor mount. Not sure what changed but after pulling them out and putting them in a few more times, they dropped into place nicely. I'll write up my header install experience on another post.
I used the Non-Fouler trick to get around the emissions problems, but after everything was buttoned up and ready to go, this did not trick my post cat O2's and I was still reading way too hot as well as showing that I had a non-functional catalytic converter.
I'm not saying that everyone out there who says the non-foulers work are full of it, cars are just weird like that, one thing works on one and not for another.
Desperate to pass inspection with these headers (Especially since I sold my cat-headers) I started looking at other options. This basically meant an O2 Simulator. It was only through relentless searching that I even found an article discussing custom tunes to resolve this problem.
Once I had determined that I would move forward with giving this a shot, I needed to figure out how to get the software all working...this usually difficult job is made extremely simple thanks to armenh :bow: and his awesome post here:
http://ift.tt/2tpujXH
Not only does he have links to the software you need, but his video really walks you through setting it all up nicely. Not to mention, the only place I could find BMW Coding Tools.
I then used the following threads to help get towards a new EU2 flash:
http://ift.tt/2s6kg68
http://ift.tt/2tpqCBe
Basically, you need to go to http://ift.tt/2s6lcHr and enter all your pertinant information, click on Engine Electrical System > Programmed DME control unit
Then find the specific DME flash for your car, in my case 12 14 7 564 476, of which, you only need the last 7 digits to properly pull in the correct EU tune in WinKFP
I had everything I needed, hooked the car up to another running vehicle to keep battery voltage steady, and flashed the new EU2 tune and reset the adaptations.
After this was all done, I did a few drive cycles, and all monitors went ready besides my O2 Sensor Heaters and my Secondary Air System. In PA witha 2001+ car, you need to have it down to 1 system not ready so I was still falling short.
After worrying that I was driving all over Gods creation for no reason, I did some additional reading and read that some people had to unplug their SAP Relay sensor and fuse 4 for the O2 Sensors. I pulled the fuse, removed the glovebox, and pulled the salmon colored relay. I reset my adaptations, and before I even moved my car, I put the TouchScan software on and it listed my SAP as N/A instead of Incomplete! So now I have only 1 system not ready, which is the O2 Sensor heaters.
So to summarize for those looking for a TLDR jump.
- Step 1 - Install after market headers from ebay with Non-Foulers that probably wont work.
- Step 2 - Buy a cable and install all the software in the following article - http://ift.tt/2tpujXH
- Step 3 - Update your Daten files, also in the previously mentioned documentation.
- Step 4 - Go to the http://ift.tt/2s6lcHr and enter your information to get the DME assembly number you need for EU2
- Step 5 - Load up INPA to make sure you're communicating successfully with your car. If you are, load WinKFP.
- Step 6 - Click on comfort mode.
- Step 7 - Click on Enter ZUSB and Input your 7 digit DME assembly you pulled from the bmwfans website and click OK.
- Step 8 - Your ECU Family should match up and you should have the appropriate ZB number selected. Leave the Integration position alone and click OK.
- Step 9 - Click on Done which will take you back to the main menu with new additional options.
- Step 10 - You're now all ready to code. Ensure you're battery is hooked up to keep constant voltage and make sure your laptop isn't going to die. It took about 30 minutes for me.
- Step 11 - Once you're ready, click on Program and off it will go.
- Step 12 - After this completes successfully, have a little celebration that you didn't brick your computer.
:woot:
- Step 13 - Open the DME box in your hood and locate the small fuse block that contains 30, 30, 20, 30, 30 fuses. Remove the 4th fuse. (I wasn't really 100% which one was 4 so I just went from the left and pulled the 4th, it was correct but you should be able to check this by reading the O2's in INPA after pulling the fuse)
- Step 14 - Remove your glove box to gain access to a the SAP Relay that is a salmon colored box.
- Step 15 - Open up INPA and reset all your adaptations with the Key On.
- Step 16 - Before starting your car, you now need to go into Synchronize EWS and reset / store or you won't be able to run correctly.
- Step 17 - DRIVE. Run through a few drive cycles and you should pass everything you need to.
Headers, Tunes, Non-Foulers...The story of Passing PA Emissions testing
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